The Empire State’s dominant agricultural enterprise, dairy farming, is important enough that the New York State Fair annually designates a whole day to recognize that industry. This year it’s Thursday.

Dairy cows are one of the most popular attractions with both youth and adult exhibitors showing the many breeds that make New York a leading dairy state. Each year, exhibitors from all over the Empire state display thousands of animals including such breeds as Guernsey, Holstein, Brown Swiss, Jersey, Ayrshire and Shorthorn in barns on the grounds.

Livestock exhibitions were a primary motivation for the earliest fairs when farmers brought animals to market for sale. The animals were compared to each other, eventually leading to the more formalized judging done today.

The judging and competitions are open to the public, but most fair-goers simply enjoy strolling the hay-strewn floors at a leisurely pace. There’s also an opportunity to observe milking take place in the modern, glass-enclosed parlor.

The spacious structure is also a temporary home to farm owners and families while their animals are exhibited.

Keeping an eye on their livestock make dairy farmers available to field questions from curious visitors. People walking through the barn often stop to ask questions about the cows that make such a profound contribution to their lives or the industry. Common questions include “Do You have to milk them daily?” and “Is this cow pregnant?”

Although exhibitors may enjoy their time at the Fair, farming is their livelihood and business comes first. There are more than trophies and ribbons at stake when judging takes place. A cow’s value may actually increase if she wins in her class.

The primping that farmers do on their cows may make it seem like a beauty pageant, but the prettiest bossy isn’t necessarily most likely to take a blue ribbon. The judges are looking for a cow that will produce a lot of milk over a long period of time. A panel of experts scrutinizes the animals for several qualities that make it the most perfect example of the species in the ring that day.

Baby calves are very popular, both in the main barn and in the calf birthing tent, down past the Expo Center. Watching the actual births is not for everybody, but the newborns are irresistibly cute, photogenic and often within petting range.

Just across from the main cow barn is the Dairy Products Building, home to the Fair’s signature artwork, the butter sculpture. About 800 pounds of real New York butter is carved into statuary with each year featuring a different theme and design.

A few feet away, customers flock to the milk bar where chocolate, white and sometimes strawberry milk are sold in 25-cent cups.

Thursday is also Armed Forces Day with active military personnel and veterans admitted free with proper identification. The troops will parade down Broadway beginning at 6 p.m.

Attendance at the 2022 New York Sate Fair was mediocre with the first few days averaging around 52,000 people. but the vibe is more positive and vendors are enthusiastically looking forward to the next 10 days.

Down on Restaurant Row, early arrivals were munching freshly-fried doughnuts at one to the Fair’s oldest stands, P-Z-O’s. Each day, before manager Mark Stachurski’s crew starts cooking up the sausage and steak sandwiches for which they’re famous, they cut out and fry the precursor of the fried dough that is a favorite State Fair treat. The pastries are served hot–with cinnamon sugar optional–for just a dollar.

Right across the street, Bob Tarbell and his niece Annie have a stand bulging with caps, shirts and all things Yankees for local baseball fans. While there is plenty of variety of colors and styles at AJ’s Hot Corner, there is no gear for fans of any other team–it’s Yanks or nothing. But given the popularity of the Pinstripers around here, business is good.

Meanwhile, Fair organizers have to be hoping that attendance heats up as good weather continues into the weekend. With ticket prices historically low and the public feeling relief from the pandemic, you would expect bigger numbers.

But one major factor could be holding down gate counts. The concert lineup may be the weakest in Fair history and knowledgeable insiders will tell you that concert attendance is one of the top factors driving big crowd numbers on the grounds.

Fair management should put the task of replacing the concert promoter at the top of their to-do list for next year. This won’t be The Hound’s final word on this topic, so watch future posts for more thoughts about concert bookings.